Hix pioneered the use of seasonal, British ingredients, an approach that lends itself nicely to the neglected dishes and ingredients of another age of foodie fashion. But Hix is a fine enough host to know guests want hearty, satisfying food, not gimmickry, so every dish on this menu is delicious as well as intriguing. ...With its contemporary art (including a work in neon by Hix’s mate Tracey Emin) and clientele of well-heeled art dealers and actors, Hix Mayfair feels like the epitome of civilised, non-flashy English comfort. Recommended.
The wood-panelled room is a relaxing and attractive place in which to eat, and staff are attentive (quick to proffer spare reading glasses, for example) without being obsequious. Compared to previous meals here, a midweek dinner lacked a certain something: deep-fried Cornish lamb’s sweetbreads with whipped peas, smoked bacon and a poached Burford Brown egg was excellent, but mixed beets with ragstone goat’s cheese and wild herbs, although pretty, lacked oomph...But even with this slightly uneven experience, we still had a great evening in one of London’s more enjoyable hotel restaurants.
The kitchen goes about its business with practiced confidence and a light touch, while very “proper” staff are on hand to recommend the perfect glass to match your choice from a menu that’s big on seasonality and sourcing. Here you will find dressed Portland crab, roast rack of Launceston lamb with Scottish girolles, red deer with haggis and a juicy summer pudding accompanied by clotted cream. Tea in a silver pot with a salver of intense petits fours provides a suitably refined sign-off.