It is a slice of Paris, only with waiters who seem genuinely pleased to see you and a kitchen that will send out coquille Saint Jacques because it's wonderful, not because it's retro or camp. They park the cheese board close to the door as a declaration of intent...You want to know what French classical cooking looks like? Well, here it is, correct in all its parts.
The cold part of that sends out a lot of seafood – oysters, smoked salmon, ceviche – while the chefs manning the ovens and grills concentrate on French-slanted dishes of impeccable execution. A reliably flawless experience.
From the chrome bar and mosaic floor of the bistro to the linen napkins and Laguiole knives in the formal but “light and airy” restaurant, Lutyens is the kind of slick operation you’d expect from design supremo Sir Terence Conran.