The rumble of trains over this converted railway arch does nothing to detract from the serenity of the interiors or the towering strength of the wine list. The food is equally varied, mixing Anglo-French influences with ideas from further afield – as in cured mackerel with rice broth and pork fat, succulent langoustines paired with shiso and almonds or the wonderfully saline salt-baked beets with seaweed butter. Be sure to try the cocktails, too.
Expect a long wine list that looks like it's been carefully thought through. Old world options dominate, though there is a focus on bottles from the States. Beer by the bottle comes from Four Pure, Madness, Rio Brewing Co. and Kiuchi Hitachino. Cocktails sound intriguing – think fino sherry with dill pollen liqueur, lemon and soda, rye whisky with burnt maple syrup, mezcal and walnut bitters, or an old fashioned with olive oil bourbon.
The venue’s new menu will be based around seasonal ingredients and take inspiration from chef Sebastien’s travels across Asia, Australia, Scandinavia and the Middle East, with dishes including: langoustine, cocoa beans and pine nuts; Jerusalem artichoke with caramelised yoghurt; and slow-cooked lamb with courgette and yuzu.